Wednesday, December 1, 2010

The American Paradox

Americans hold a special place in the hearts and minds of the Kenyan people. Our president (with an approval rating in the high 90's) is infallible, our university education system unparalleled, and simple tasks such as riding a unicycle, reading English out loud, and typing never cease to strike awe into the deepest fibers of those around us. Despite the diamond encrusted pedestal upon which we have been thrust, there remains, here in Kenya, a constant and unwavering belief that Americans, as perfect as they appear, are entirely incapable of performing any sort of practical day to day activity whatsoever. Our image of infinite ability and untapped potential aside, feats such as cooking beans, washing clothes by hand, and walking for prolonged periods of time (eg. longer than 2 minutes) are viewed as entirely out of our spectrum of capability. Sadly, during my time here, I've done surprisingly little to aid the efforts to dispel this misconception.Case in point: We return to a cool, quiet evening in the dust laden mountain sanctuary that is Loitokitok. The sun has long since journeyed West as the Milky Way casts her elegant smile down on the rustic mountain town. The distant cries of 4-legged barnyard laborers are the only audible evidence of civilization. Following a routine conversation with the Peace Corps' top brass, my host mother, a proud and boistrous woman who radiates a gregarious confidence with her every action, has been left with the impression that I'll soon be tested on my ability to adequately brew a cup of tea and, should I fail to meet expectations, will be deemed entirely unfit for Peace Corps service, only to be shuttled out of the country on the next available flight. Following this conversation, it has been decided that on this night in question that I shall hereafter assume the duties of brewing my own cup of evening tea, devoid of any assistance from the rest of the family. Having already proven myself a national disaster in terms of language proficiency, my benevolent host mother is is clearly trying to help me give the Peace Corps as few reasons as possible to declare me an utterly failed attempt at cross-cultural relations, disacknowledging any involvement whatsoever in my training, if not altogether denying my very existence. To be honest, I have no appetite for tea on this particular evening, though undestanding that if I don't prepare tea for myself then, despite any protest on my part, it will undoubtedly be prepared for me at the cost of someone else's efforts, I set to work.My host family inside watching the evening news, I go about filling a small sufuria (a wide-brimmed, handleless pot resembling an upside down top hat which has become the regional gold standard of cookware) with that most essential of ingredients: water. As I breeze through the steps of brewing the perfect cup of tea my next task would seem simple enough, remove the already heating bath water from atop the outdoor charcoal stove so that I can heat the water for tea. The problem? Clearing the stove puts me face to face against a pot designed with all the practicality of a set of rubber crutches. Imagine a miniaturized version of the gemini space explorer, the ceiling cut away so as to allow the cabin to be filled within 1/16th of an inch from the top with scalding hot water. A single, shallow, downward facing pocket formed by a thin sheet of tin riveted into place near the top of this miniature galactic explorer serves as the only grippable area on this lopsided, water-logged space craft. Why a second handle was deemed unnecessary is beyond the understanding of a lowly first year volunteer such as myself, as gripping the nearly overfull vessel by the lip opposite the handle seems the only way to maneuver the torpedo shaped kettle without dousing the stove, ground, and myself with white hot bath water.The path before me is clear, I launch into action gripping the conicular broiler with a set of never once laundered rags clearly set outside for this very purpose. Moist lip in my left hand, awkward tin offshoot in my right, I move with the steady, purposeful motions of a neurosurgeon operating on the pope as I'm careful not to tilt or jerk in any direction that would cause blistering water to slosh over onto any of my appendages. All is progressing well until a sudden, unpredictable shift in the Earth's rotation causes the simmering cauldron to slip from my left hand, sending the smallest wave of steaming fluid splashing over the charcoal and concrete. A long, drawn out hiss and a puff of steam are released as torrent of scarring fluid washes over the once glowing embers, drowning out the quietest of startled breaths as my limbs retreat from the path of the searing waterfall with speeds capable of confounding even the most cunning siafu horde. Free from harm, I set down the recalescent lunar lander and place the aluminum, water-filled show hat over the damp but still active coals, as grateful for not completely extinguishing the family's cooking fire as I am for avoiding third degree burns. As I relax downward onto a small wooden stool and begin tending to my evening beverage the door to the house bursts open like a bag of Doritos freshly discovered by an emaciated group of shipwrecked mariners marooned on a deserted isle. Out of the entryway shoots the house worker, a hard working young woman with a vibrant smile who has passed on to me the majority of the cooking and cleaning know how that I've acquired here in Kenya."What happened?" she says, her eyes drifting down to the still billowing pool of fluid sprawled out around the stove, "Did you get burned?""No," I start in, "I just spilled a little...""What happened?", demands my host mother as she appears in the door frame, "Are you ok?""I'm ok," I answer.Cutting into my attempts to explain further she interjects, "You screamed."I try to explain that I most certainly did not scream, but before the words can escape the threshold of my oral cavity I'm interrupted as the head of my host father rolls around the edge of the door frame and into view. "What happened?", he inquires as he joins the scene.The house worker explains that I spilled the bath water as my host mother turns back to me. "From now on don't try to move that on your own," she orders, pointing at the still mostly full monolith of water, "call one of us to help you."I agree as the wave of spectators recedes back into the house, their impression of my capabilities no stronger than before they came outside. From that night on tea would always prepared for me before I got home.

3 comments:

  1. Yikes, so much lost in translation... I really admire the fact that you are in Kenya following what you feel you are being called to do. Many of us don't have the foresight or the courage to do something like that, let alone have the humility to deal with people looking down on you for no apparent reason, other than the fact that you are somewhat different. I think it's interesting that no matter who we are, when confronted with someone from a wildly different paradigm, we tend to think of them as something so unfamiliar, that they become almost unrecognizable as capable, independent, rational human beings.... Props for being such a great person Lorenzo!!!!
    -Terrence

    ReplyDelete
  2. You are a brave(although incapable) man. I applaud your efforts to redeem the image of the American people in the minds of the Kenyan public. But, I have to go with your host mom on this one. Next time, let someone else do it.
    [just kidding of course, I have been enjoying your blog sinse I found you on Louis's blog {that I found from reading Ali's}] thank you

    ReplyDelete
  3. Was that a publicity stunt to get them to start nick-naming you Mr. Tea?

    ReplyDelete